Sails Backstop Mechanics On Washabuckt’s Only Ferry

By Charles H. Vilas

Where but on Cape Breton Is­land could one find a ferry service that has been in continuous oper­ation by one family for 120 years?

Where for that matter on the entire North American Continent could one find a ferry boat, government subsidized, making sev­eral trips daily that is ketch-rigged!

Such a craft is the Baba of Lower Washabuckt, Cape Breton Island, and such a service is that provided by Joseph Alexander MacLean.

 

The first ferry, inaugurated by Joe's great-grandfather, Malcolm MacLean, in 1848, was authorized to carry the mails across the one-and-a-half-mile-wide St. Patrick's Channel to and from the county seat of Baddeck but was also cap­able of ferrying cattle, horses and humans using sail for propulsion when the wind served and oars when it did not.   The only land route to Baddeck was more than 60 miles overland at that time and the same distance over unpaved roads today. 

In due time, Malcolm's son, Michael Malcolm MacLean, inherited the responsibility of communication with Baddeck. Then came a cousin Neil P. S. Mac-Clean. He was the first to use power.

That was back in 1910 and con­sisted of a one-cylinder two-cycle make-and-break ignition Atlantic engine made in Lunenburg, N.S. Sail was abandoned at that time with no additional risk to sched­ules as the Atlantic engine not only was reliable in all weather, but could be quickly repaired on the spot.

The worst that could happen would be accepting a tow from one of the Washabuckt farmers who might recognize the plight of the ferry while working his fields and who owned one of the many trap boats then based at near­by MacKay's Landing.

Joe's father, Roddy D. MacLean, was next to operate the ferry. During his term, the newer generation of Washabuckters un­der the influence of automobiles was losing its touch with the sea. By the time that Joe took over only his own brother, Michael Dan MacLean, kept a boat a MacKay's Landing where former­ly barques and schooners had been built and launched and nu­merous craft were based to carry cattle and produce to market in Sydney or Halifax.
 

Today, even if a farmer noticed and appreciated the plight of drifting ferryboat, he no longer has the means to go to the rescue. Hence the ketch rig.

After one or two unhappy ex­periences with wet and cold pas­sengers and a balky motor too complex for on-the-spot repairs, Joe purchased a boat from Arichat, Isle Madame, which carried sail as well as power. In case of motor trouble there was always a leeward port that might be made regardless of wind direction. 

True, it might not be where the passengers wanted to go but it was at least a haven.


Recently, this writer sat on the wharf at MacKay's Point with a; message for the Baba which had just appeared from behind Kidston Island in Baddeck.  Instead of heading directly for port, how­ever, the Baba worked upwind at right angles till in the lee of Allen's Island then bore off for MacKay's Landing.

When asked if this maneuver was to get a quick lee for a sea­sick passenger, Joe replied, "No, I always work up to weather so I can make port under sail should I have to. I have a responsibility for the comfort and safety of my passengers, you know."       

The Baba's Graymarine engine seems to perform year in and year out as if to tempt Joe to tempt the fates. This he will never do.

Nevertheless, on a good brisk day you may be startled and think I you are living in a past generation when you see the dark sails of a gaff-rigged ketch come scudding across St. Patrick's Channel an exuberant skipper at the helm. It will be Joseph Alexander MacLean and you will know that once again the blood of his sea going ancestors from Barra in the Hebrides, still coursing through his veins, has gotten the better of him.

    The Highland Heart of Cape Breton